ATHAR

The house

We make shoes that are repaired, not shoes that are replaced.

The house workshop, Ramallah — first floor, since 1958.

The house workshop, Ramallah — first floor, since 1958.

Forty-seven steps, six chapters

01MeasureFourteen measurements per foot, and a photograph of the ankle break.
02The lastBeech carved, then corrected with thin cork layers.
03CuttingThe hide read on a light table, then cut by knife, not by press.
04ClosingUpper and lining sewn with sixteen-turn waxed thread.
05JoiningWelt and waxed thread on the dress lasts; heat and eighty seconds of pressure on the sport ones.
06FinishingSeven passes of wax, or one pass of a stiff brush. A night between each.

68

years

6

makers

10

lasts

18

runs a year

Who makes them

Abu Rashid

Abu Rashid

Last maker

Huda N.

Huda N.

Cutting

Wasim A.

Wasim A.

Welting

Three rules

Make less

Ten lasts, sixteen models, eighteen runs a year. No summer and no winter.

Repair what we sold

Any shoe that comes back to the workshop leaves with a new sole — stitched on the welted lasts, re-cured on the sport ones. Even fifteen years on.

Say where it came from

The tannery name and run number are stamped inside each shoe. You can ask about the leather you are wearing.

The house journal

Why we dry beech for three yearsA last that moves ruins the shoe within a year.
Why we let the gum amberRubber, daylight, and the bleach we do not use.
Four mistakes in leather careThe commonest: cream every week.
Two hundred and forty-five gramsWhat comes out of a running shoe when nothing is added to it.

The whole collection is in the shop.

Explore the collection