ATHAR
An oxblood leather derby and an undyed canvas sneaker side by side on a dusty stone floor, a trail of footprints leading to them through a shaft of late light

Every step leaves a trace

A trace thatoutlaststhe step

Welted dress shoes and vulcanised sport shoes, cut on the same benches in one workshop, and repaired in that same workshop for as long as they last.

Explore the collection
  • Welted or vulcanised
  • Undyed, unbleached
  • Made in 47 steps

68

years of the house

41,200

pairs made by hand

47

steps per shoe

19

materials in the library

Two ranges, one bench

Ten lasts, and nothing bought in finished

The welted range and the sport range are cut in the same room from the same four colourways. What changes is the last, and how the sole is joined to it.

The whole collection
An unbranded trainer laid out in pieces on a plaster bench: knit upper, outsole, footbed, laces, last and knife

From the workshop

A shoe is four pieces before it is one

Upper, midsole, footbed, lace. Laid out on the bench they are four materials from four suppliers, and the whole trade is in the order they are joined — and in how much of that joining can be undone later.

A welted shoe is stitched, so the sole comes off. A vulcanised shoe is cured, so it does not. Both are made to be repaired; only one of them is repaired with a knife.

Read about the house

Most asked for

The lastThe pressThe finish
The last
01

01

The last

Ten of them now. The welted lasts are beech, dried three years; the sport lasts are milled aluminium, because a running last has to hold a tenth of a millimetre across four hundred pairs.

The press
02

02

The press

Two hundred and eighty kilos through a heated roller, ninety seconds. That is the whole difference between a sole glued onto a shoe and a sole that has become part of one.

The finish
03

03

The finish

Wax on leather, a stiff brush on nubuck, nothing at all on knit. The last hour of a shoe decides how its first year looks.

From people who have worn them for years

The house journal

Why we dry beech for three yearsA last that moves ruins the shoe within a year.
Why we let the gum amberRubber, daylight, and the bleach we do not use.
Four mistakes in leather careThe commonest: cream every week.
Two hundred and forty-five gramsWhat comes out of a running shoe when nothing is added to it.

One letter a month

Notes from the workshop, and limited runs before they are listed. Nothing else.